The Marinated Mushroom Narrative (Elizabeth David Part II)

There is a narrative to a classic recipe--a thread of good taste, common sense, elegant simplicity & humility to the ingredients. It is a story of specificity, told only through the language of food. Elizabeth David translated that language faithfully.

1. Presentation
From Elizabeth David's French Provincial Cooking (1960) on the presentation of hors-d'oeveres at la Mère Germaine:
The hors-d'oeveres are beautifully served here, in small oval raviers of glowing deep yellow Provençal pottery. Brought on a basket tray which was left on the table so we could help ourselves, they consisted only of olives, marinaded mushrooms, a rice and prawn salad, anchovies, these pickled cherries and the tapénade already described.

2. The Classic (slightly revised)
(Also from French Provincial Cooking)
Champignons à la grecque
The addition of a little tomato to the usual à la grecque manner of preparing mushrooms makes the dish more interesting. Put 5 tablespoons of olive oil, 3 of water, 2 skinned and chopped tomatoes, 3 or 4 crushed peppercorns, half a dozen coriander seeds, a bayleaf, a sprig of thyme and a little salt into a saucepan. Bring this to a boil, let it simmer 2 or 3 minutes, then add 1/2 lb. of very small button mushrooms washed, drained and rubbed with lemon juice. Cook gently about 5 minutes. Take out the mushrooms, put them in a small shallow oval serving dish; continue cooking the sauce a few more minutes until it is thick and somewhat reduced. pour over the mushrooms. Serve cold.

3. The Classic Revised
In this recipe from Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen (1970), E.D. has edged the recipe even more towards simplicity and surprise (a recommended direction, in every art.) In this version all of the ingredients are essential and none of the flavors are lost.
Coriander Mushrooms
This is a quickly cooked little dish which makes a delicious cold hors-d'oeuvre. The aromatics used are similar to those which go into champignon à la grecque, but the method is simpler and the result even better.
Ingredients for three people are: 6 oz firm white, round and very fresh mushrooms, a teasppon of coriander seeds, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, lemon juice, salt, freshly milled peper, and one or two bay leaves.
Rinse the mushrooms, wipe them dry with a clean cloth, slice them (but do not peel them) into quarters, or if they are very large into eighths. The stalks should be neatly trimmed. Squeeze over them a little lemon juice.
In a heavy frying pan or sauté pan, warm the oilve oil. Into it put the coriander seeds which should be already crushed in a mortar. Let them heat for a few seconds. keep the heat low. Put in the mushrooms and the bay leaves. Add the seasoning. Letthe mushrooms cook gently for a minute, cover the pan and leave them, still over very low heat, for another 3-5 minutes.
Uncover the pan. Decant the mushrooms–with all their juices–into a shallow serving dish and sprinkle them with fresh olive oil and lemon juice.
Whether the mushrooms are to be served hot or cold do not forget to put the bay leaf which has cooked with them into the serving dish. The combined scents of coriander and bay go to make up part of the true essence of the dish.